Eagle Rocks is a cluster of vertical limestone fins jutting from the flanks of Cave Mountain. The Rocks are blessed with a plethora of cracks, aretes, dihedrals, and faces, vaguely reminiscent of Seneca in much the same way that the Tetons are reminiscent of breasts. The 10th Mountain Division trained and climbed here, as had God knows how many brave little naked red hunters and local sweethearts; exposed to the elements and subject at any time to any of a number of sudden, perhaps catastrophic geological changes.
Trails were established by whitetail deer, black bear, local climbers and other unstable forms of indigenous life, and cannot be counted on not to hurl you to a painful and untimely death or even to get you to the crag and back again without winding up like the Donner party.
(For an example of this need-to-know attitude, ask the guides how they are getting into Champe Rocks.)
Routes listed are those the author has climbed, names given are for reference and to avoid endlessly calling everything “Unknown #13”. Route descriptions begin with the West End (the left side of the front, in other words).
Undoubtedly, this face has seen many fine epics, ascents, and retreats, but there has been little to no consistent record keeping of these milestones. The author has rapped, top-roped, and even led portions of this face, and recommends strongly that anyone choosing to set out on the sharp end climb extensively on other Eagle lines or on rock of the same quality and composition before attempting what you think will be a new line.
A wealth of moderate and horrifying routes alike can be winnowed from the cracks and faces of the corner. Several long cracks split the right side of the dihedral, with tons of loose and/or low-quality rock, rotten cracks, bee’s nests that stay active year round, poison ivy, and everything else that goes with the term “epic climb”.
It is also important to remember that, lichen and loose rock aside, few if any “new” trad lines remain to be plucked on such a prominent feature so close to the road.
There are numerous small faces to the left (south) of the Orange Dihedral that can be set up as top ropes or leads. Beware all the usual hazards: poisonous and thorny vegetation, loose rock, snakes and bees, and sketchy protection.