No Time Like The Present

While I understand that we are all somewhat overwhelmed by current world events, there's still no time like the present to plan for the future.

With that in mind, I offer the following:

Over the last four or five years, there's been some discussion in the MD/DC/VA climbing community focused on organizing a smaller version of the New River Rendezvous/AAC Craggin' Classic at Reed Creek; bringing together gyms, regional chapters, affiliates and outing clubs in the same way that advocates, affiliates and regional climbing groups will come together at NRG again this year. 

An event like this would be a major economic boost for Franklin and Pendleton County, an opportunity for regional climbing groups and organizations which have traditionally focused on Seneca Rocks to participate in stewardship in the Canyon, and a great way to introduce a new generation of climbers to even more of the incredible recreational potential of the area.

Obviously, a lot of practical and logistical background work will need to happen before even a small-scale climbing event. and that's where the Friends of Smoke Hole sees many opportunities for the entire community, climbers and residents alike.

The Monongahela National Forest will also have to sign off on any such activity, and this would be an opportunity for them to bring the entire community of shareholders up to date on the long-overdue Climbing Management Plan and workshops, the NFS personnel and other organizations involved, and their future plans for public input and involvement.

Combining the knowledge and resources of the Monongahela National Forest, Pendleton County Commission, the Town of Franklin, the Friends of Smoke Hole, the Friends of Seneca, the DC and Richmond Chapters of the AAC, and the Access Fund's Conservation Team and local affiliates, the community can move forward with planning and preparation; strengthening trails and belay areas, working with local authorities to create a plan, obtain permits and promote the event as part of the Mon Forest Towns Initiative and to explore access to nearby parking at the industrial park, coordinating with local law and EMS for traffic and crowd control and climber safety, rescue and first aid considerations.

As climbers, stewards of the land and residents of Pendleton County, we believe that the goal should not simply be to create an event, but to see that the entire community has an opportunity to join in, creating new connections in the area, encouraging conversations between climbers and residents; increasing opportunities for local youth to experience climbing, for residents to better understand climbing and the diverse community of climbers, for visiting climbers to better understand the diverse local community, and for local entrepreneurs and small area businesses to become invested in long term benefits from the recreation economy, creating a synergy ensuring the sustainability of our recreational resources and the culture around them.

To keep events as positive and conflict free as possible, I will not be directly involved in organizing or administration, beyond answering any questions and sharing any tools, knowledge or insight I can to assist the effort. If I am there, it will be as a volunteer, local climber and excited spectator.

I've asked one of Rakkup's publishers, Rob Price, who is also President of the Access Fund's Board of Directors, to explore grants and Conservation Team support and reach out to the NFS and various affiliates. I wouldn't be surprised to see Tyrel Johnson or my wife Cindy in attendance, representing Friends of Smoke Hole. Friends of SH will also promote the event and reach out to volunteers from our trail and clean up days.

I'm inviting you to consider joining any effort the AAC DC, PATC-MS, MAC, DC Outing Club, Shenandoah Valley, Richmond or Charlottesville climbers might organize, and to encourage any of those groups to which you belong to do so if they have not.

Thanks for your time.

Climb on,

Mike Gray

Belated Congratualtions

After 21 days of effort over the course of three months, Mike Farnsworth finally sent his 5.13+ project at Smoke Hole Canyon's Darkside Wall on the weekend of November 8th, 2014. He called the route Cartography of Spirit.

The line, a second variation ending to The Lightness, climbs the center of the wall, working heel hooks, smears and micro-edges through a series of desperate throws between underclings and marginal side-pulls, past several roofs. 

Farnsworth, who has more than one hideous crankfest to his credit, called it "the best and hardest line I've ever done in my life".

Rumor has it that Matt Behrens is geared up for the second ascent.

Farnsworth, Behrens and a handful of other hard climbers from across the East Coast have all taken shots and and falls on the other suspected 13+ in the area, Reed Creek's Cold Day in Hell. That line was bolted by Ryan Eubank in the winter of 2009.  The crux, a long, no-feet reach between a three-finger hole and a mono never went free, and Eubank  installed ring anchors at mid-height to create the three-bolt 5.12 Napoleon Complex from the bottom of the project.

To date, there has been no first ascent of Cold Day in Hell.

The Renovator, trying to decide whether being able to feel his fingers would be a good or bad thing, on an early TR attempt of Cold Day in Hell.